In the landscape of sustainable fashion, the focus is increasingly shifting from materials to production processes, particularly the chemicals used. The ZDHC (Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals) Protocol has become the global reference for responsible chemical management in the supply chain.

What is the ZDHC ?

Founded by a group of leading industry brands, ZDHC is an international initiative that aims to phase out the use and release of hazardous chemicals throughout the entire production cycle of the fashion, textile, and footwear industry.

The ultimate goal is not just reduction, but achieving zero discharge of these substances into the environment, protecting water resources and the health of workers and communities.

The core of the programme is not a simple ban, but a structured system of standards and tools to guide companies on this path.

The Fundamental Pillars and the Key Requirements

To join with the spirit of ZDHC, companies in the fashion sector must commit to several fronts. The main requirements are structured around:

1. Manufacturing Restricted Substances List (MRSL): This is the central document. The MRSL lists hazardous chemicals whose intentional use in production processes (e.g., dyeing, printing, finishing) is prohibited. It is much stricter than a list that only controls the final product, as it intervenes upstream in the process.
2. Chemical Product Compliance: Chemical products used in supplier facilities must be compliant with the ZDHC MRSL. Compliance is often verified through recognised certifications (e.g., ECO PASSPORT by OEKO-TEX® or the higher level of STANDARD 100 by OEKO-TEX®).
3. Wastewater Analysis (Wastewater Guidelines): ZDHC requires the periodic monitoring of wastewater from production sites. The guidelines define concentration limits for hazardous substances and parameters to be analysed, ensuring transparency and traceability of discharges.
4. Data Sharing via the ZDHC Gateway: The results of wastewater tests and information on chemical product compliance must be uploaded to a central online platform, the ZDHC Gateway.

This creates transparency throughout the entire supply chain, allowing brands to monitor their suppliers’ performance.

How ZDHC Chemical Product Classification Works

The heart of the ZDHC system is not a simple prohibition, but a three-level assessment system through internationally recognised standards, which verify compliance with the ZDHC Manufacturing Restricted Substances List (MRSL).

1. Level 1 – MRSL Conformity: This is the base level. A chemical product is tested by an independent third-party body to verify that it does not deliberately contain substances banned by the ZDHC MRSL.
2. Level 2 – Excellent Environmental Impact: In addition to MRSL conformity, the product is assessed for its overall environmental impact throughout its life cycle (e.g., biodegradability, aquatic toxicity).
3. Level 3 – Optimal Environmental Impacts: This is the highest level. The product meets the most rigorous sustainability criteria, often compliant with standards like Cradle to Cradle Certified® or EU Ecolabel. It also considers the energy efficiency of the chemical’s own production process and social justice. The product represents market excellence in safety and sustainability.

Why is this Classification Revolutionary?

Before ZDHC, the approach was binary: a chemical product was either “allowed” or “banned”. This tiered system:

• Guides Choice: Helps brands and suppliers select not only compliant products, but the best available alternatives.
• Drives Innovation: Encourages chemical manufacturers to continuously improve their products to reach higher levels.
• Creates Transparency: Certified products are registered on the ZDHC Gateway, a public platform that makes information accessible to all supply chain actors.

Importance for the Fashion Sector

Adopting the ZDHC protocol is not a mere administrative burden, but a strategic investment that brings tangible benefits:

• Environmental Protection.
• Legal Compliance and Risk Reduction.
• Market Access and Brand Loyalty (More and more major brands require their suppliers to align with ZDHC. Adoption therefore becomes an essential requirement to enter or remain in high-level supply chains).
• Health and Safety: Ensures safer working environments for operators, reducing exposure to harmful substances.
• Innovation and Transparency: Pushes the chemical industry to develop safer alternatives and creates a system of shared data that increases trust between brands, suppliers, and consumers.

QU-ESAR CONSULT

positions itself as the ideal partner to guide companies with its team of chemists characterised by a solid background in the fashion sector and industrial and environmental chemistry, with solid and multi-year experience as Chemical Managers and Laboratory Directors. QU-ESAR CONSULT offers consulting services to companies in the FASHION sector and chemical producers in the role of ZDHC Manager, based on solid experience in consulting on the various management systems already present on the market and applied in the fashion sector.

The ZDHC protocol represents a paradigm shift: from a reactive approach (checking the finished product) to a preventive and managerial one (controlling processes and chemical inputs). For fashion companies, integrating its principles is no longer a niche option, but a necessary step to build a resilient, responsible business aligned with the demands of a market that increasingly calls for transparency and real sustainability.

To deeper information go to ZDHC (Roadmap to zero)